Jon Ashton - Me Blog http://www.jonashton.com/ en-us Jon Ashton Enterprises Jon Ashton - Me Blog http://www.jonashton.com/images/logo.jpg http://www.jonashton.com/ 144 49 <![CDATA[Food Snobbery]]> Thu, 02 Sep 2010 00:00:00 GMT  I think from the start I was destined to be a foodie, or general food enthusiast, if you will.  Some of the very first vibrant snapshots from my childhood capture me sitting front and center on top of a tin bucket helping Granny Ashton shell spring peas, peel King Edward potatoes, and knead bread dough.  There was something methodically comforting about spending time in the hot kitchen.  Relishing that memory, I started thinking how food has evolved from a nutritional sustenance for the body into a full-blown paparazzi chasing, light bulbs flashing, reality TV phenomenon. Have we lost sight of the intrinsic value of food?  Have gastro molecular foods replaced Mother Nature’s simple seasonal gifts?  Is the chef preparing the meal the true star of the show, or is he just the maestro orchestrating the ingredients to harmonize?
 
I had dinner the other night at a really nice restaurant in NYC.  I shall not mention the restaurant because unveiling its identity makes no difference.  For the same reasons I will keep the anonymity of my dinner companions.  However, if you consider yourself a foodie, my tableside guest list would reveal a handful of today’s most popular food entourage.  For this particular dinner, I took a backseat approach and simply listened more than actively participated in general conversation.  As the evening went on and several bottles of wine mysteriously disappeared, I reveled in the multiple conversations going on at once.  There was a great deal of focus on recent food experiences including restaurant critiques and shared experiences.  Each personality eagerly charged into conversation with some pleasant, and some not so pleasant, culinary commentary.  My take away was that everyone has an opinion on food today.  With opinions come food snobbery, which can be compared to aesthetic criticism of artwork or the auditory censure of music.
 
 And who decides what is edible and what’s not?  Certainly the New York Times does an adequate job of embracing the spirit of innovation.  However, how much weight can we put in a star rating?  Celebrity Chefs like Daniel Boulud, Mario Batali and Jean-George Vongerichten have turned NYC into America’s dining capital.  But do journalists fall under a star spell and become fans more than critics these days?  I say kudos to Ruth Reichl for her journalistic integrity and the great lengths she took during her days at the NY Times to disguise her identity as their were bounties posted in kitchens across NY with her mug posted plain as day to the back wall.  She wanted to write as an everyday woman with no V.I.P. status.  She was able to embrace the spirit of fresh, seasonal ingredients and write in such intoxicating prose that you longed to have a bite of what she was sampling.  Even today, Ruth continues to capture her readers’ culinary neurons through her 120 characters on Twitter.
 
The point of all is this is to say that food snobbery does not equal food enthusiasm. There are two types of gastronomes.  Which one do you want to be?  There is the critical character who searches for the ultimate meal but is never satisfied because the sauce covering the quail has not been reduced for 17 weeks, four hours, and thirty three minutes.  You overhear him bragging about how he just bought a case of caviar but had to return it when he found out it didn’t have the superior taste of the Dead Sea.  What a load of brew ha-ha!  When you’re overcritical you miss out on some of the most beautiful ingredients.  I tend to be the second of the two gastronomes, which is more of an exploratory food captain always looking for new ports and eager to see what’s waiting around each corner.  I want to be humble, gracious, and thankful for the experience. I want to believe that the chef is trying his or her best to give it their best shot. No piece of artwork is the same.  I find more times than not that the simple authentic hole in the wall offers the most exotic flavors and why not try everything this go round?
 
Like art and music, some restaurants may have a smooth jazz rhythm that reads off the back of an old Miles Davis record.  And some, well, may leave the same bad taste as Milli Vanilli’s lip-synced version of “Girl You Know It’s True”.
 
At the end of the day you don’t have to shell out a fortune to eat a gastro molecular version of a peanut butter sandwich masquerading in the form of a shiny stuffed grape. You can create some of the best food you’ve ever tasted right in the comfort of your own kitchen.  Something as fancy sounding as Steak au Poivre can be whipped up without a lot of fuss and if you are adventurous with flavors, you can take a simple steak to many countries.
 
In my case, I leave you with this delicious steak recipe and something to chew on…
 
                         

                                                 Filet de bœuf au poivre
                                                        (Steak with peppercorns and cream sauce)

4 beef tenderloin steaks, 1 1/2 inches thick
sea salt
2 tablespoons whole peppercorns
2 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 sprig fresh thyme
1/3 cup Cognac, plus
1 teaspoon port (optional)
1 cup heavy cream
 
Remove the steaks from the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and let come to room temperature. Sprinkle all sides with salt.

Coarsely crush the peppercorns with a mortar and pestle.  Spread the peppercorns evenly onto a plate. Press the fillets of beef, on both sides, into the pepper until it coats the surface.
 
In a medium skillet over medium heat, melt the butter and olive oil. As soon as the butter and oil begin to turn, bubble and smoke, gently place the steaks in the pan. For medium-rare, cook for 4 minutes on each side. Once done, remove the steaks to a plate, tent with foil and set aside. Pour off the excess fat but do not wipe or scrape the pan clean.
 
Off of the heat, add 1/3 cup Cognac to the pan and carefully ignite the alcohol. Gently give the pan a –wee shake until the flames subsided. Return the pan to medium heat and add the cream and sprig of thyme. Bring the mixture to a boil and whisk until the sauce thickens nicely, approximately 5 to 6 minutes. Add the teaspoon of port and season. Add the steaks back to the pan, spoon the sauce over fish out sprig of thyme, and serve.

Serves four.
]]> <![CDATA[We’re Jammin]]> Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT        I gaze across the field where I am standing to see a fruit kaleidoscope of Crayola colors running and spilling across rows of rich sugary delight. I look at a worn picket fence where children have gathered thatched wooden baskets splintered like flaky buns to harvest their summer jewels. I am transported back in time to my own childhood in England where the sun would tilt back his hat and sing a happy song to the gardens below.  I immediately imagine a warm thick slice of homemade bread from Granny’s kitchen with a hearty slathering of homemade raspberry jam.

Many folks these days don't take time to cook jam or understand how easy it is to create.  All you need is willing hands, a wooden spoon, a helpful pot for boiling, and a wide mouth jar capped with a loving lid.  Mix in a radiant smile and some great music to sing along to and you’ve created a perfect harmony to capture summer’s finest symphony of flavors.  There’s nothing like opening a jar of mouthwatering, locally grown berries, whipped up into a nutritious jam in the middle of winter to make you grin.
Jams can be made from any kind of fruit, and as a child Granny loved making blackberry, strawberry and raspberry. As an adult, I tend to lean toward those classic flavors but like to also mix it up with savory jams that don’t require pectin for thickening.

 I’ve included two jam recipes for you to enjoy: blueberry rosemary jam and chile jam. The blueberry rosemary jam marries well with my turkey burgers. When I first pitched the combination to my star editor last year, she thought I was bonkers. However, I have friends beg me for the recipe. Who knows, maybe after she has the chance to read this, she’ll feel inspired to try it?  I shall stick my neck out and say that if you take a crack at the recipe, you will declare that it’s the best turkey burger you’ve ever eaten.

Chili Jam is something I always have in my refrigerator and is perfect if you have some tolerance to spiciness. If you tend to reach for the hot sauce, you’re in for a treat with this recipe.  

With love and fresh ingredients, you’ll find your jars rippling and spreading out like Bob Marley’s classic tune,

“We’re Jammin”.
We're jammin':
I wanna jam it wid you.
We're jammin', jammin',
And I hope you like jammin', too.

Have a smashing week!


                                                              
Turkey Burgers with Blueberry and Rosemary Jam

1 pound ground turkey

2/3 cup finely chopped red onion

1/3 cup (about 2 ounces) crumbled feta cheese plus additional for topping

2 small garlic cloves, pressed

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

 8 slider buns

1 cup Boursin cheese

For Jam
1 (15-oz.) package frozen blueberries, thawed
1 cup sugar
1/2 cup white wine
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
3 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 sprig fresh thyme                                                                                                          
Stir together blueberries, sugar, wine, stock, lemon juice and herbs in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 40 minutes,

 Mix turkey, onion, feta, garlic, rosemary, pinch coarse salt, and pinch pepper in medium bowl. Form into 4 patties. Brush with oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Over medium heat grill burgers until charred on both sides and cooked through, (please don’t over cook). Grill cut side of rolls until toasted, about 3-4 minutes per side. Assemble burgers, top with cheese and Blueberry Jam.

serves 4



Chilli Tomato Jam

 1 lb roma tomatoes

1 small onion  sliced

3-4 small red chill’s (chopped)

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 inch piece ginger finely chopped

1/2 tbsp ground cumin

 1/2 tbsp mustard seed

1/2 tbsp turmeric

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

olive oil

salt & pepper

Cut tomatoes in half and drizzle them with olive oil and sauté in a frying pan until skins start to blister.

 Sweat the onions in a pot in a touch of oil on low flame until they turn soft and translucent.  Add the remaining ingredients to the onions and sweat a few more minutes.

 Add the roasted tomatoes to the pot, reduce the heat to very low, cook out for 1-2 hours season to taste with salt and pepper.

 Once all the ingredients are cooked out, allow to cool and puree in a food processor, refrigerate and use as needed.]]> <![CDATA[Ultra Fixin’s article in August South West Airlines magazine.]]> Tue, 17 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT Ultra Fixin’s
Jon Ashton, executive chef of Relish magazine, helps you develop a feel for better produce.


“Your choice of lettuce depends on what you’re trying to bring out,” says Ashton. “If you want something with lots of crunch, opt for either romaine or iceberg. Bibb lettuce works when you need more softness, like for a lobster roll. For more flavorful options, try Radicchio, which will add bitterness, or arugula, which is going to be more peppery. Spinach is a  less flavorful option but packs a ton of nutrition. Before you buy any type of lettuce, examine it closely to make sure there’s no brownness, a sure sign it’s been bashed or improperly stored. When it comes to fruits, sliced apples work very well with cheese.

You could also try a little melon or carmelized apples on prosciutto to add a hint of sweetness. Strawberries work well with most cheeses, too, especially goat cheese. Though you tend not to see them much outside of Thanksgiving,dried fruits like cranberries, apricots, prunes, and figs work with ham and pork. You could also try a variety of jams, like blueberry on a turkey sandwich. Avocados are an excellent way to add creaminess to a sandwich, and they offer a healthier option than butter and mayonnaise.

 I recommend using a Haas avocado. They have more taste, and they’re smaller. Give them a little pinch —they should be soft as a baby’s belly. When buying tomatoes, I’m always looking first for a nice, organic option. You’ll immediately notice the taste difference if you can find one that’s ripe and juicy. Cherry tomatoes are great for chopping, and if you add some grated cheese, you’ll make a wonderful grilled cheese sandwich. If I’m not cooking onions, I prefer to use a sweeter version like Walla Walla onions from Washington or the Vidalia onions from Georgia. Maui Maui, in their rawest form, are excellent, and not quite as harsh as a Spanish onion. Before you buy, just mark sure to check for bruising.”

]]> <![CDATA[The Trill Of The Grill]]> Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT
There is nothing that compares to taking advantage of summer and firing up the grill. After all, grilling is revered as one of America’s favorite pastimes. The grill itself is a backyard icon.  How many times have you seen a neighbor grilling and think, I need to fire up mine? There is something sexy about going into a sweaty grilling battle cooking with an almost ancient contraption that appeals to me.


Every year I get emails from readers asking for grilling tips, quick solutions, and answers to common mistakes, so I decided to share some helpful hints with you.

Preparing the BBQ

Light the fire at least 30 minutes before grilling. I love to use a chimney starter with crumpled newspaper in the bottom with briquettes or charcoal stacked above. Your charcoal is ready for cooking when it's about 80% ashy grey in daylight, glowing red at night.  This takes about 25 to 30 minutes.

Hot or cold

How can I tell if your grill is hot enough to cook on?  I have a tendency to use my hand (which may not always be the safest method).

•  HOT - You can hold your hand over the coals for only 2 seconds.

•  MEDIUM-HOT - You can hold your hand over the coals 3 to 4 seconds.

•  MEDIUM - You can hold your hand over the coals 4 to 5 seconds.

 To increase the heat, you can push coals together, add more coals, lower the grilling surface, or fan the fire and tap the ashes from the coals.  I also like to have one side of the grill hotter than the other to maximize cooking capacity.

Veggies

Quickly blanching veggies such as asparagus, carrots, and butternut squash, not only improve their color but also make for a quicker cooking time without risk of burning. I find salting zucchini and eggplant lightly first so their flesh softens before hitting the grill is a great way to go. This way the veggies are less inclined to dry out.
 

Proteins

Allow the meat to come to room temperature before grilling. If not, they may have "cold" spots and not cook evenly. Just don't let the meat sit out too long and never defrost meat on the counter.

I like to slice my proteins thin. It is a timesaver in both cooking and marinating. Most folks will place a whole chicken breast on the grill. However, this leads to uneven grilling that even a trained chef, like myself, can’t rescue.

Adding BBQ Sauce

Apply sugar-based sauces and glazes towards the end of cooking. Also, bear in mind, that often these are already finished concoctions. I water mine down with a little water so it can glaze and reduce more on the meat or fish. Use a brush to evenly spread on.

Keeping clean

A clean grill will allow for non-stick cooking. Work your grill before, during, and after grilling so your meat and fish will look presentable.

Beware of cross contamination. Please be sure to wash everything after handling raw meat. Don't use the same plate for the cooked meat that you’ve used for the uncooked meat unless you've washed it in between.

Grilled food, especially meat cooked over charcoal, evokes a distinct lust. I season over-generously. Salt, meat juices, and charcoal are a marriage, made not in heaven exactly, but somewhere more interesting altogether. Lamb is a food that appreciates this method of cooking, as do oily fish varieties like sardines and mackerel. Oil them well to stop them from sticking to the grates.

If you have never been to Jamaica, I promise this recipe from our website Relishmag.com is as authentic as they come.

                                             
Jamaican Jerk Chicken

This recipe is adapted from a recipe from Smokey Joe’s on Negril Beach. Use it on chicken, pork, seafood or even tofu. For the best flavor, try using whole allspice berries and black peppercorns and crush them with the bottom of a heavy pot or in a coffee mill before adding to the processor. Use jalapeños in place of Scotch bonnets for less heat


1 bunch green onions, cut into 2-inch lengths

4 garlic cloves

1 (2-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger,

cut into ½-inch discs

1 heaping tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon ground allspice

1 whole cinnamon stick, broken into several pieces

1 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper

1 to 3 Scotch bonnet or habanero chile peppers, stems and seed removed

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

¼ cup soy sauce

Juice of 4 limes (6 tablespoons)

½ cup vegetable or canola oil

4    skin-on, bone-in chicken leg quarters or

1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into quarters

Instructions

1. Place all ingredients except oil and chicken in a blender or food processor. With the processor running, slowly add a thin stream of oil until the mixture becomes thick. Save 1/2 cup of the marinade for drizzling over chicken during cooking.

2. Place chicken and larger amount of marinade in a ziptop plastic bag and marinate at least 2 hours or overnight in the refrigerator.

3. Prepare the grill.

4. Remove chicken from marinade; discard marinade. Place chicken on the grill, searing the first side (about 3 to 5 minutes). Turn, drizzle with reserved marinade, and sear the other side. Move chicken to an area of indirect heat (such as the grate above the grill or off to the side) and cook until it reaches an internal temperature of 165F. Use a grill pan on the stovetop if preferred. Serves 4.

Tips from the Test Kitchen

Wine Pick: Scotch bonnet peppers are wickedly good, but they’re blisteringly hot. While it’s not impossible to find a wine that would be OK with that heat, I have to be honest and say that I’d most enjoy a good beer with this spicy grilled classic. Keep it authentic — like this recipe — and grab a Jamaican Red Stripe lager.


*No matter if you are a novice griller or a barbecue pit master, you can benefit from this timeless saying I learnt from an old Jamaican chef.  "Wanti, wanti, cyan getti, getti, getti nuh want it.”  In Jamaican, it means (Count your blessings and do not take what you have for granted- others may just be hoping they had what you have).]]> <![CDATA[ 'Seasons and Celebrations' ]]> Mon, 09 Aug 2010 00:00:00 GMT  
Based on great reader feedback, we know we are inspiring the nation to solve their weeknight dinner dilemmas, find the perfect food pairings, and serve up quick and easy entertaining ideas to create memorable family occasions.
 
Relish magazine celebrates America’s love of food and its new market fresh cookbook, Seasons and Celebrations, captures fun, fresh, and delicious menu options for a full range of traditional and non-traditional family parties.
 
This is the first cookbook I have collaborated on and put my name to so I could not be prouder to show it off.  I am fortunate to be living in this great country and Seasons and Celebrations truly captures favorite holiday traditions and simple menu ideas that your guests will enjoy immensely.
 
I want to also kindly thank Jennifer Barger from the Washington Post for the lovely piece you wrote this week about our cookbook. Please read below.

The Greens Zone: Jon Ashton, 'Seasons and Celebrations'


Choosing a nice lettuce is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to composing a dreamy midsummer salad. "Look at the farmers market, and go for all the different colored things — fennel, asparagus, peppers. Pick what seems most vibrant and brightest," says Jon Ashton, chef for Relish magazine and co-author of the new book "Seasons and Celebrations" ($25, Countryman Press). After shopping, chopping veggies and fruit into a bowl of cool, healthful goodness requires just a few simple tools. Ashton won't toss without his salad spinner; other pros swear by lettuce-only knives. Still, whether you hail Caesars or prefer spinach combos, remember that there's nothing worse than an overdressed salad. "You don't want lettuce leaves doing the backstroke in vinaigrette," Ashton says. "That's like a beautiful lady who put on too much makeup."

CHOP
Slice and serve in Oxo's chopper-cutter bowl ($25). The serrated blade of Oxo's lettuce knife ($5) works on everything from arugula to romaine.

DRESS
Whip up ranch or Russian with Bonjour Salad Chef ($20) or buy a locally made lemon-basil blend ($6, Cork Market, 1805 14th St. NW; 202-265-2674).

SERVE
Toss salad onto your plate with Fred's servers (top, $30, Home Rule, 1807 14th St. NW; 202-797-5544) or Sur La Table's Salad Hands ($10). Present your concoction in Nkuku's mango bowl ($67, Homebody, 715 Eighth St. SE; 202-544-8445).

RECIPE FILE: MEDITERRANEAN WATERMELON SALAD

Ingredients:
» 1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
» 2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
» 1 lb watermelon
» 1 tbsp honey
» 1/4 tsp salt
» Coarsely ground black pepper
» 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
» 5 oz. arugula
» 2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
» 3 tbsp chopped fresh mint
» 4 oz. crumbled feta cheese
» 1/2 cup chopped pitted Kalamata olives

Serves Six

Cover onion with lime juice.

Trim rind from watermelon and slice into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Remove seeds.

Remove onions from lime juice. Add honey, salt and pepper to lime juice; stir until well blended. Add oil, whisking, in a steady stream.

Arrange arugula on a large platter. Place watermelon and onion slices in overlapping layers on top of arugula. Top with herbs, feta and olives. Drizzle with half of the lime juice mixture. Pass the remaining lime juice mixture at the table.

Recipe courtesy Jon Ashton, from "Seasons and Celebrations"

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