Popover Recipe
Updated: 4 days ago
They rise quietly, almost unnoticed at first. Then suddenly, with a kind of quiet pride, they lift and stretch, their tops turning deep gold, their sides crisp and hollow. A simple batter, nothing more than milk, eggs, and flour, yet what emerges feels rather grand.
TIME About 2 hours | SERVES 6 (makes 12) | LEVEL Medium |
Why You'll Love It
TALL, CRISP, AND AIRY Crisp golden sides give way to a soft, almost custard-like hollow centre. | GRUYÈRE AND DIJON Nutty Gruyère blisters on top while Dijon adds a quiet, gentle warmth. |
THE HOT PAN SECRET A properly preheated pan and a closed oven door give the dramatic rise. | FREEZER FRIENDLY Baked popovers freeze for a month and crisp up again in the oven. |
Tested in my kitchen · As seen on TODAY and The Tonight Show · Parade magazine's chef for 10 years · About Chef Jon → |
Gruyère and Dijon Popovers
Serves 6 (makes 12 popovers)
Ingredients
3 cups milk
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
6 eggs
1 to 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
6 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated
Method
STEP 1 OF 8
Heat the pan
Set a 6-cup popover pan on the lower third rack of the oven. Place a baking sheet on the rack beneath to catch any drips. Heat the oven to 400°F.
STEP 2 OF 8
Warm the milk
Warm the milk in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until small bubbles gather at the edges. Not boiling, just gently heated through.
You'll know it's right when small bubbles form around the edge of the pan and the milk is steaming, but not boiling. |
STEP 3 OF 8
Sift the flour and salt
Sift the flour and salt together onto a sheet of waxed paper.
STEP 4 OF 8
Make the batter
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until pale and lightly frothy, about 2 minutes. Slowly pour in the warm milk, whisking constantly. Stir in the Dijon mustard. Gradually whisk in the flour and salt until the batter is mostly smooth; a few small lumps are perfectly fine.
You'll know it's right when the batter pours easily and is mostly smooth, with only a few small lumps. |
STEP 5 OF 8
Fill the hot pan
Carefully remove the hot popover pan from the oven and lightly coat the cups with nonstick spray. Fill each cup about three-quarters full with batter, then sprinkle each with about ½ ounce of the grated Gruyère.
STEP 6 OF 8
Bake without peeking
Return the pan to the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Turn the pan once, then continue baking for another 30 minutes until deeply golden, puffed, and crisp. Do not open the oven during this time.
You'll know it's right when the popovers stand tall, deeply golden, with sides crisp enough to crack under a fingertip. |
If something's off: if they sink once they come out, they needed longer for the structure to set. Give the next batch the full 45 minutes and keep the door closed. |
STEP 7 OF 8
Serve straight away
Turn them out of the pan and serve immediately, while they are still proud and airy.
STEP 8 OF 8
Bake the second batch
Wipe the pan clean, return it to the oven for 5 to 10 minutes to reheat, then repeat with the remaining batter.
Tips & Chef's Notes
Preheat the pan: A screaming hot pan is the single most important factor. It gives the batter an instant lift and creates the crisp exterior.
Warm the milk: Room-temperature or slightly warm milk helps the batter cook evenly. Cold milk straight from the fridge slows the rise.
Don't open the oven: This is the hardest part. Opening the door lets heat escape and popovers collapse. Trust the process. Wait the full 45 minutes.
Fill three-quarters full: Too little batter and they won't rise impressively. Too much and they overflow. Three-quarters is the sweet spot.
Serve immediately: Popovers deflate as they cool. Bring them to the table straight from the oven while they're still puffed and proud.
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Key Ingredients
Milk: Warmed until small bubbles gather at the edges, it helps the batter cook evenly and rise beautifully.
Eggs: Whisked until pale and lightly frothy, they're where the air begins and give the popovers their structure and lift.
All-Purpose Flour: Sifted with the salt and whisked in gradually, it makes a smooth, pourable batter that sets into crisp, hollow shells.
Kosher Salt: Sifted in with the flour, it seasons the batter all the way through.
Gruyère Cheese: Sprinkled on top of each cup, it melts and blisters into nutty, golden edges.
Dijon Mustard: Just a spoonful rounds the flavour and lifts the cheese with a faint, gentle warmth.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Not preheating the pan: a cool pan gives a weak rise, so heat it in the oven until properly hot before the batter goes in.
Using cold milk: milk straight from the fridge slows the rise, so warm it gently until small bubbles form at the edge, without boiling.
Adding the milk too quickly: pour it slowly into the eggs while whisking constantly so nothing curdles.
Opening the oven door: escaping heat makes popovers collapse, so keep the door closed for the full 45 minutes, apart from turning the pan once.
Over- or under-filling the cups: too little and they won't rise, too much and they overflow, so fill each cup about three-quarters full.
Letting them sit: popovers deflate as they cool, so bring them to the table straight from the oven.
What Are Popovers?
A popover is, at heart, a simple thing. Milk, eggs, flour. A batter is poured into a hot pan and left to do its work. Yet what happens in the oven feels almost theatrical.
They climb. They split. They crisp along the edges while the inside remains soft and airy, almost like a savoury custard.
The secret is heat and restraint. A hot pan. A steady oven. And the discipline to leave the door closed while they rise.
The Story Behind This Popover Recipe
I remember the first time I truly paid attention to them. Not as a side, not as something incidental, but as the main event.
A quiet kitchen, early morning light, the sort that slips across the counter without asking. The batter had been whisked without fuss. Nothing clever, nothing elaborate. Just care.
When they came from the oven, they stood tall and proud, their tops blistered with cheese, their sides crisp enough to crack under a fingertip.
I tore one open. Steam escaped, carrying with it the scent of warm milk and Gruyère, softened now by a gentle note of Dijon.
It felt, in that moment, like something worth holding onto.
Watch: How to Make Perfect Popovers
Why This Popover Recipe Works Every Time
A good popover asks very little, but it does expect attention.
The pan must be hot. Properly hot. The batter should be smooth but not overworked. The oven must remain closed, allowing the heat to build and the structure to set.
This version adds just enough Gruyère for richness, and a spoonful of Dijon mustard to bring a quiet depth. Not sharp, not overpowering, just a gentle hum beneath the surface.
The Secret to Crispy Popovers
Heat is everything.
A preheated pan gives the batter an immediate lift. The edges set quickly, creating structure, while the steam inside pushes upward, forming that signature hollow centre.
And then, patience. Opening the oven too soon lets the heat escape, and with it, their confidence.
Let them rise undisturbed.
How to Get That Perfect Popover Rise
The batter should be pourable, smooth, and just warm from the milk.
Whisk the eggs well. This is where the air begins. Add the milk slowly so nothing curdles. Fold in the flour gently.
Fill the cups generously, about three-quarters full. They need something to climb with.
The Role of Dijon and Gruyère in Popovers
Gruyère brings a nutty, melting richness. It crisps on top, forming those golden, slightly blistered edges.
The Dijon does something quieter. It rounds the flavour, adds a faint warmth, and lifts the cheese without ever taking centre stage.
It is the sort of addition you notice only when it is missing.
Light as air, crisp on the outside, soft and custardy within: popovers elevated with Gruyère and Dijon mustard.
What to Serve with Popovers
Roast Beef: The classic British pairing. Popovers (or Yorkshire puddings) alongside roast beef with gravy is a timeless combination.
Butter and Jam: Simple and perfect for breakfast. Tear open a hot popover, add a pat of butter and your favourite jam.
Soup or Stew: A warm popover alongside a bowl of soup replaces bread beautifully. Try with French onion soup or beef stew.
Eggs Benedict: Use a split popover as the base instead of an English muffin for an elevated brunch.
Honey Butter: Whip softened butter with a drizzle of honey and a pinch of flaky salt. Irresistible with warm popovers.
How to Store Popovers
Best served fresh: Popovers are at their absolute best straight from the oven. They deflate and lose their crispness within 30 minutes.
Refrigerator: Store cooled popovers in an airtight container for up to 2 days. They'll lose their puff but can be revived.
Reheating: Place on a baking sheet in a 350°F oven for 5–8 minutes. They won't re-puff fully, but they'll crisp up nicely.
Freezer: Freeze baked popovers in a zip-lock bag for up to 1 month. Reheat from frozen at 375°F for 10–12 minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions About Popovers
What is the difference between popovers and Yorkshire pudding?
They're essentially the same thing. Both use a simple batter of eggs, milk, flour, and salt baked in a hot pan. Yorkshire pudding is traditionally cooked in beef drippings alongside a roast, while popovers use butter or oil. The technique and result are nearly identical.
Do I need a special popover pan?
A dedicated popover pan with steep, narrow cups produces the tallest, most dramatic rise. However, a standard muffin tin works well too. The popovers will be shorter but equally delicious. Grease the cups well either way.
Why did my popovers collapse?
Three common reasons: the oven was opened too early (heat escaped), the batter was too cold (use warm milk), or they were underbaked (they need a full 45 minutes for the structure to set). Leave the oven door closed and be patient.
Can I make popovers without cheese?
Absolutely. Plain popovers made with just eggs, milk, flour, salt, and a bit of melted butter are the classic version. The Gruyère and Dijon in this recipe are a savoury variation, not a requirement.
Can I make the batter ahead of time?
Yes. The batter can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours. Let it come to room temperature (or warm it gently) before pouring into the hot pan. Cold batter in a hot pan can cause uneven rising.
Recommended Equipment
Make this recipe easier with the right tools: Sauce Pan, Rimmed Baking Sheet and Oven Thermometer.
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