Traditional British Oxtail Soup Recipe
I have always had a fondness for the sort of soup that requires you to stay home for the afternoon.
Not because it demands much attention. Quite the opposite. Once the ingredients have been introduced to one another, the pot asks for little more than a gentle simmer and the occasional glance beneath the lid.
Traditional British oxtail soup belongs to that lovely family of dishes.
I remember the pleasure of coming into a warm kitchen on a cold Liverpool afternoon, the windows misted with condensation and something wonderful cooking slowly on the stove. There was usually a saucepan that had been bubbling away for hours, filling the house with the reassuring smell of onions, beef and vegetables.
Oxtail has that same ability to make a kitchen feel welcoming.
It is an inexpensive cut in spirit, if not always in today's butcher shops, and one that rewards patience handsomely. Given several hours of gentle cooking, the meat becomes wonderfully tender, while the bones and connective tissue surrender their natural gelatin to the broth.
The result is a soup with a richness that no amount of flour or cream could ever quite imitate.
For my version, I begin by browning the oxtail until the edges turn a deep mahogany. Onions, celery, carrots and garlic follow, along with a little tomato paste and a modest spoonful of Marmite.
Now, before anyone raises an eyebrow at the Marmite, I promise you will not taste it as a separate ingredient. It simply gives the broth a little more of that wonderful savory depth.
The pot then spends several hours in a gentle oven, until the meat slips easily from the bones.
I strain the broth and add fresh carrots and white turnips, allowing them to cook until tender while retaining their shape. A splash of dry sherry brings warmth, a little sherry vinegar sharpens the flavors, and freshly chopped parsley adds a welcome touch of green.
If you can make the soup the day before, so much the better. A night in the refrigerator allows the fat to settle on the surface, where it can be lifted away with a spoon.
You may discover that the cold broth has set into a soft jelly. Far from being a problem, this is a rather lovely sign that the oxtail has given the soup everything it has to offer.
Warm it gently, and the jelly melts into a dark, silky broth.
This is the sort of soup I would happily serve with thick slices of crusty bread, a little butter and nowhere particularly urgent to be.
Some meals are worth waiting for. This is one of them.
TIME About 5½ hours | SERVES 6 | LEVEL Easy |
BEFORE YOU START This soup lives or dies on how well the oxtail is browned, and a good beef stock matters too. These lessons from my Kitchen School will help. Each one takes about five minutes to read. |
Why You'll Love It
FALL-OFF-THE-BONE OXTAIL A slow, covered braise turns a tough cut meltingly tender | A DARK, SILKY BROTH Natural gelatin gives it body without any flour |
FRESH ROOT VEGETABLES Carrots and turnips added at the end stay sweet and whole | BETTER MADE AHEAD Chill the broth overnight and the fat lifts right off |
As seen on TODAY and The Tonight Show · Parade magazine's chef for 10 years · About Chef Jon → |
Traditional British Oxtail Soup
Serves 6 | Prep: 40 minutes | Cook: 4½ to 5 hours | Total: about 5½ hours, plus optional overnight chilling
Ingredients
For the Oxtail and Broth
3½ pounds oxtail, cut through the joints into pieces
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, roughly chopped
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
2 medium carrots, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, lightly crushed
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 teaspoons Marmite
7 cups good-quality, low-sodium beef stock, plus more if needed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Kosher salt, as needed
For the Root Vegetables
3 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
2 medium white turnips, peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces
To Finish
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 to 2 teaspoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions
STEP 1 OF 13
Heat the Oven and Dry the Oxtail
Heat the oven to 325°F. Pat the oxtail thoroughly dry with paper towels, then season it lightly with kosher salt and black pepper.
Chef Jon's tip: season lightly at this point. The stock and Marmite both bring salt, and you'll adjust everything at the end. |
STEP 2 OF 13
Brown the Oxtail in Batches
Heat the vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the oxtail in batches, leaving plenty of room between the pieces. Turn the pieces until they are deeply browned on every side, about 10 to 12 minutes per batch. Transfer the browned oxtail to a plate.
Chef Jon's tip: don't rush this. Give the pieces space, leave them alone, and turn them only once they release easily from the pot. This color is where the flavor of the whole soup begins. |
You'll know it's right when every side is a deep, even brown. Not tan. Properly brown. |
STEP 3 OF 13
Soften the Vegetables
Carefully pour off the rendered fat, leaving about 2 tablespoons in the pot. Reduce the heat to medium. Add the onions, celery and roughly chopped carrots. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and beginning to color around the edges.
You'll know it's right when the onions, celery and carrots are soft and just starting to color at the edges. |
STEP 4 OF 13
Cook the Tomato Paste
Add the garlic and tomato paste. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring frequently, until the tomato paste darkens to a deep brick red. Take care that it does not burn.
If something's off: if the bottom of the pot starts to look black rather than dark brown, turn the heat down and move straight on to the next step. A splash of stock will cool things off. |
STEP 5 OF 13
Add the Marmite and Deglaze
Stir in the Marmite. Pour in 1 cup of the beef stock and scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon, releasing the browned meat and vegetable juices.
Chef Jon's tip: scrape every corner of the pot. Those dark, sticky bits on the bottom are pure flavor, and the stock lifts them right off. |
STEP 6 OF 13
Return the Oxtail to the Pot
Return the oxtail and any juices from the plate to the pot. Add the remaining 6 cups of stock, the thyme, bay leaves and black pepper. The liquid should almost cover the oxtail. Add a little more stock or water only if necessary.
You'll know it's right when the liquid comes almost to the top of the oxtail, with just the tips of the pieces peeking out. |
STEP 7 OF 13
Braise Low and Slow
Bring the broth to a gentle simmer. Cover the pot tightly and transfer it to the oven. Cook for 3½ to 4 hours, turning the oxtail once halfway through. Check the liquid level at the same time, and add a little hot water if it has dropped substantially.
If something's off: if the liquid is bubbling hard when you check it, turn the oven down by 25°F. You want a lazy, gentle simmer, not a boil. |
STEP 8 OF 13
Check for Tenderness
Check one of the largest pieces. The meat should pull away from the bone with very little resistance. If it is still firm, cover the pot and continue cooking, checking every 20 to 30 minutes.
You'll know it's right when the meat on the biggest piece pulls away from the bone with almost no effort. Trust that, not the clock. |
STEP 9 OF 13
Pick the Meat
Carefully transfer the oxtail to a large plate. Leave it until it is cool enough to handle. Remove the meat from the bones, checking carefully for small fragments. Discard the bones, gristle and excess fat. Break the meat into small, tender pieces.
Chef Jon's tip: do this somewhere with good light. Oxtail has small bones, and it's worth a second look before the meat goes back in the soup. |
STEP 10 OF 13
Strain and Skim the Broth
Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large heatproof bowl. Press the vegetables gently to release their juices, but do not force them through the sieve. Discard the cooked vegetables, thyme and bay leaves.
Skim away as much surface fat as possible. For the cleanest broth, cool the broth and oxtail meat promptly in separate shallow containers, then refrigerate overnight. The following day, lift the firm layer of fat from the broth.
Chef Jon's tip: press the vegetables gently and stop there. Forcing them through the sieve makes the broth cloudy. |
You'll know it's right when the chilled broth has a firm, pale layer of fat on top and has set like soft jelly underneath. That's the gelatin, and it's exactly what you want. |
STEP 11 OF 13
Taste and Reduce the Broth
Pour the broth into a clean saucepan and bring it to a gentle simmer. Taste it while warm. If it seems thin, simmer it uncovered for 10 to 20 minutes, tasting regularly, until it is rounded, rich and savory. If it becomes too concentrated, add a little water.
If something's off: if it tastes salty, don't reduce it any further. Add a splash of water instead, and go easy on the salt at the end. |
STEP 12 OF 13
Add the Vegetables and Oxtail
Add the freshly diced carrots and turnips. Simmer gently for 15 to 20 minutes, until the vegetables are tender but still hold their shape.
Add the reserved oxtail meat. If the broth and meat were refrigerated, bring the soup briefly to a boil and make sure it reaches at least 165°F. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for about 5 minutes.
You'll know it's right when a knife slides through the carrots and turnips easily, but they still hold their shape. |
STEP 13 OF 13
Finish and Serve
Stir in the butter and dry sherry. Heat gently for 1 to 2 minutes, until the butter has melted and the soup is thoroughly hot.
Begin with 1 teaspoon of sherry vinegar. Taste the soup, then add the second teaspoon only if it needs more brightness. Season carefully with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Ladle the soup into warm bowls, making sure each serving receives plenty of oxtail, carrot and turnip. Finish with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Chef Jon's tip: add the vinegar a little at a time and taste between each addition. It should make the soup taste brighter, not sour. |
Chef's Notes
Choosing the oxtail: ask for pieces cut through the joints and try to get a mix of sizes. The big pieces give you the most meat, and the small ones give plenty of flavor and gelatin to the broth.
Choosing the stock: the oxtail brings body, but the stock carries a lot of the flavor. Use a low-sodium beef stock that tastes properly of beef.
Seasoning: Marmite and stock both contain salt, and reducing the broth concentrates it. Season lightly at the start and finish the seasoning at the end.
Two batches of vegetables: the first lot gives its flavor to the broth and is strained away. Fresh carrots and turnips go in at the end so they stay sweet and colorful.
Swede or rutabaga: you can use it in place of white turnips. Cut it slightly smaller, as it takes a little longer to cook.
The sherry: use a dry sherry and use it with restraint. The brief final heating doesn't cook off all of the alcohol, so leave it out if you need to.
Make ahead: the broth and picked meat keep, separately and refrigerated, for up to four days. Chilling overnight also makes removing the fat very easy.
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The Secret to Oxtail Soup: Time, Gelatin and a Splash of Sherry
Oxtail soup is a proper British classic. Dark and glossy in the bowl. Rich enough to warm you right through. The kind of soup that makes a cold evening feel a little kinder.
It starts with one of the toughest, cheapest-looking cuts in the butcher's case. Knobbly pieces of tail, mostly bone, wrapped in meat and connective tissue. Cook it quickly and it's chewy. Cook it slowly and it becomes one of the most flavorful things you'll ever eat.
None of the steps are difficult. But each one is doing a specific job, and when you understand why, the soup comes out right every time.
Here's what's happening in the pot, and why each step matters.
1. Why the Oxtail Is Dried Before Browning
Water is the enemy of browning. While there's moisture on the surface of the meat, the temperature there can't rise much above the boiling point of water, and browning needs more heat than that.
A few minutes with paper towels makes a real difference. Dry meat starts to brown almost as soon as it hits the hot oil. Wet meat sputters, steams and stays pale for a lot longer.
2. Why the Oxtail Is Browned in Batches
Browning creates flavor. As the surface of the meat gets hot and dry, the Maillard reaction kicks in, producing that deep color and hundreds of new savory compounds.
Crowd the pot and the pieces release their juices faster than they can evaporate. The temperature drops, and the meat simmers instead of browning.
So give the pieces room and take your time. Ten to twelve minutes a batch feels long, but this is where much of the soup's flavor begins. The dark, sticky layer left on the bottom of the pot is just as important, and it all comes back when the stock goes in.
3. Why the Tomato Paste and Marmite Matter
Cooking the tomato paste for a couple of minutes changes its character. It loses that raw, tinny edge and darkens to a deep brick red, adding a rounded, savory depth.
Marmite is a yeast extract, and it's naturally rich in glutamates, the same compounds that make soy sauce and Parmesan taste so savory. Two teaspoons in a big pot won't make the soup taste of Marmite. It simply makes the beef taste beefier.
4. Why the Oxtail Braises Low and Slow
Oxtail is a hard-working cut, full of collagen, the tough connective tissue that holds muscle together. Collagen doesn't soften with a quick cook. It needs long, gentle, moist heat.
Given enough time below the boil, that collagen slowly breaks down into gelatin. The meat turns tender and the broth picks up a silky body you can feel on your lips.
A covered pot in a 325°F oven is ideal. The heat surrounds the pot evenly, and the tight lid keeps the moisture in, so the liquid stays at a gentle simmer for hours without much attention.
5. Why Tenderness Matters More Than Time
No two oxtails are the same. The pieces near the thick end of the tail are large and meaty, and the ones near the tip are tiny. Some animals are simply tougher than others.
That's why the recipe gives you a test rather than a promise. When the meat slides away from the bone of one of the largest pieces with very little resistance, it's done. If not, it goes back in for another 20 to 30 minutes.
6. Why the First Vegetables Are Thrown Away
After hours in the oven, the onions, celery and carrots have given almost everything they had to the broth. They're soft, gray and spent.
So they're strained out and replaced. Fresh carrots and turnips go into the finished broth for just 15 to 20 minutes, which is long enough to make them tender but short enough to keep them sweet, colorful and whole. It's the difference between a soup that tastes good and one that looks good too.
7. Why a Gentle Simmer Gives a Clearer Broth
A hard boil churns the fat and tiny particles through the liquid, and the broth turns cloudy and greasy. A lazy simmer leaves the fat to rise quietly to the surface, where you can skim it away.
Straining gently helps too. Press the vegetables lightly to release their juices, but don't force them through the sieve, or you'll push the pulp into the broth.
8. Why Chilling the Broth Overnight Is Worth It
Oxtail is a fatty cut, and skimming a hot broth only gets you so far. Chill it overnight and the fat rises and sets into a firm layer you can lift off in a piece or two.
Underneath, you'll often find the broth has set like soft jelly. Don't worry. That's the gelatin from all that collagen, and it's a sign you've done everything right. It melts back into a silky liquid as soon as it warms up.
Just remember to cool things promptly. Shallow containers in the fridge, broth and meat separately, rather than the whole heavy pot left sitting on the stove.
9. Why the Broth Is Reduced by Taste
Every batch is a little different. The stock, the size of the oxtail and how much liquid evaporated in the oven all change the strength of the broth.
So taste it once it's strained and warm. If it seems thin, simmer it uncovered until it tastes rounded and rich. Stop as soon as it gets there, because reducing concentrates salt as well as flavor. That's also why the final seasoning waits until the very end.
10. Why Butter, Sherry and Vinegar Go in Last
These three are the finishing touch. A knob of butter gives the broth a gentle gloss and softens its edges. A splash of dry sherry adds warmth and a nutty fragrance that's been part of oxtail soup in Britain for generations.
The sherry vinegar does the quietest but most important job. Rich, gelatinous broths can taste heavy, and a little acidity lifts everything. Add one teaspoon, taste, and only add the second if the soup still feels flat. Brighter, not sour. That's what you're after.
Bringing Everything Together
A good oxtail soup should feel generous and warming. The broth dark and silky. The meat tender. The carrots and turnips sweet, bright and still holding their shape.
Ladle it into warm bowls, make sure everyone gets plenty of oxtail, and scatter over the parsley at the last moment. Put a loaf of good bread on the table and let people help themselves.
It's exactly the sort of cooking I love. A humble cut, a bit of patience and a few small finishing touches, and you end up with something that tastes like it took far more effort than it did.
Key Ingredients
Oxtail: Cut through the joints into pieces. Rich in collagen, which gives the broth its body, and full of deep beefy flavor.
Beef Stock: Choose a good-quality, low-sodium stock that tastes properly of beef. It carries much of the soup's flavor.
Onions, Celery and Carrots: The first batch of aromatics flavors the broth during the braise, then is strained away.
Tomato Paste: Cooked until brick red for a rounded, savory depth.
Marmite: A yeast extract that deepens the savory flavor of the beef. A little goes a long way.
Carrots and White Turnips: Added fresh at the end for sweetness, color and texture.
Dry Sherry: Brings warmth and a nutty fragrance. Use it with restraint.
Sherry Vinegar: Balances the richness of the oxtail and brightens the finished soup.
Fresh Parsley: Added just before serving for color and a fresh, green finish.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Wet oxtail: pat it thoroughly dry, or it will steam instead of browning.
Crowding the pot: brown the oxtail in batches with plenty of space between the pieces.
Burning the tomato paste: it should darken to brick red, not black. Keep it moving and keep an eye on it.
Too much liquid: the stock should almost cover the oxtail. Drowning it gives you a weak broth.
Boiling the braise: a hard boil makes the broth cloudy and greasy. Keep it at a gentle simmer.
Going by the clock: oxtail is ready when the meat slides off the bone, not when the timer goes off.
Missing small bones: pick through the meat carefully, under good light, before it goes back in the soup.
Seasoning too early: stock, Marmite and reduction all add salt. Finish the seasoning at the end.
Overcooking the vegetables: cut them into even ½-inch pieces and simmer just until tender.
Too much vinegar: add it a teaspoon at a time and taste as you go.
What to Serve with Oxtail Soup
A wedge of my Scottish Oat Porridge Focaccia for dunking
Warm Homemade Amish Dinner Rolls with plenty of salted butter
A crisp green salad with a sharp mustard vinaigrette
A small plate of sharp Cheddar and oatcakes on the side
Sticky Toffee Pudding to follow, if you're making an evening of it
How to Store
Make ahead: Make the broth and pick the meat up to two days ahead. Cool them promptly in separate shallow containers and refrigerate. Lift off the fat, then finish the soup when you're ready to serve.
Fridge: Refrigerate the finished soup promptly in shallow covered containers for up to 3 to 4 days.
Freezer: The soup freezes well for up to 3 months. The carrots and turnips will be a little softer after thawing. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator.
Reheat: Warm gently on the stove, stirring now and then, until the soup is thoroughly hot and reaches 165°F on an instant-read thermometer. If it has thickened, loosen it with a splash of hot stock or water.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is oxtail soup made from?
Traditional oxtail soup is made by slowly cooking pieces of oxtail with vegetables, stock and aromatic ingredients. As the meat cooks, the bones and connective tissue contribute richness and gelatin to the broth. My version includes carrots, white turnips, Marmite, dry sherry and fresh parsley.
Is oxtail actually beef?
Yes. Oxtail is the tail of cattle. It contains meat, bones and connective tissue, making it particularly suitable for slow cooking.
Why does oxtail soup take so long to cook?
Oxtail contains considerable connective tissue, which needs several hours of gentle cooking to soften. The long cooking time allows the meat to become tender while enriching the broth with gelatin.
How long does oxtail soup take to cook?
This recipe takes approximately 4½ to 5 hours to cook, with an additional 40 minutes of preparation. Allow extra time if you choose to chill the broth overnight.
Why is my oxtail soup gelatinous when cold?
That is perfectly normal. Oxtail contains collagen, which converts to gelatin during cooking. When the broth cools, the gelatin causes it to set. The soup returns to a liquid consistency when reheated.
Do you need to thicken oxtail soup?
Not necessarily. Traditional oxtail soup can develop a naturally silky texture from the gelatin released during cooking. This recipe does not require flour or cornstarch.
Can you make oxtail soup the day before?
Yes, and I recommend it. Preparing the broth a day ahead makes removing excess fat considerably easier. The soup can then be finished with fresh vegetables, sherry and parsley before serving.
What does Marmite add to oxtail soup?
Marmite adds concentrated savory flavor. Used sparingly, it enhances the richness of the beef broth without giving the finished soup a pronounced Marmite taste.
Can I make oxtail soup without sherry?
Yes. You can omit the sherry and finish the soup with a little sherry vinegar to brighten the flavor. The soup will still be rich and satisfying.
What vegetables go into traditional oxtail soup?
Onions, carrots and celery are common aromatic vegetables used to flavor the broth. This recipe also includes white turnips, which bring a gentle sweetness and retain their shape when cooked carefully.
Can you freeze oxtail soup?
Yes. Cool the soup promptly and transfer it to suitable freezer containers. For best quality, use within approximately three months. Thaw safely in the refrigerator and reheat thoroughly.
Recommended Equipment
Make this recipe easier with the right tools: Dutch Oven, Sauce Pan, Chef's Knife and Instant-Read Thermometer.
You Might Also Like
If you enjoyed this recipe, you might also love my Beef Bourguignon, Beef Goulash, Slow Cooker French Onion Soup and Homemade Chicken Noodle Soup.
Want to make your own stock for this soup? Start with my guide on How to Make Stock.
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