Brown Butter Pumpkin Bread with Maple, Toasted Walnuts and Cinnamon Crumble
I came home from Morning Glory Farm with a pumpkin the other morning. Not that I particularly needed one. There were already two sitting on the kitchen counter, along with a bowl of apples and a rather impressive collection of squash. But this one was a handsome little fellow, with deep orange skin and a slightly crooked stem, and I couldn't resist.
Eleanor Rigby watched me carry it into the kitchen with the weary expression of someone who had hoped for a chicken.
I had pumpkin bread in mind.
TIME 1½ hours, plus 1 hour 50 minutes cooling | SERVES 16 (makes 2 loaves) | LEVEL Easy |
BEFORE YOU START The crumble topping relies on cold butter rubbed in quickly with your fingertips, the same principle behind a flaky pie crust. My Kitchen School lesson explains why, and takes about five minutes to read. |
Why You'll Love It
BROWN BUTTER AND MAPLE Nutty, toasty and gently sweet | COOKED PUMPKIN A tender crumb, never damp or gummy |
CINNAMON WALNUT CRUMBLE A crisp, buttery, golden top | MAKES TWO LOAVES One to keep and one to give away |
Tested in my kitchen · As seen on TODAY and The Tonight Show · Parade magazine's chef for 10 years · About Chef Jon → |
Brown Butter Pumpkin Bread with Maple, Toasted Walnuts and Cinnamon Crumble
Makes 2 loaves (serves 16) | Prep: 30 minutes | Bake: 55 to 70 minutes | Cooling: 1 hour 50 minutes
Ingredients
For the Cinnamon Walnut Crumble
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (75 g) all-purpose flour
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (60 g) packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons (30 g) demerara or turbinado sugar
4 tablespoons (55 g) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes
⅓ cup (40 g) walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
For the Pumpkin Bread
2⅓ cups (283 g) all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
1 can (15 oz / 425 g) unsweetened pumpkin purée
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom
⅛ teaspoon ground cloves
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (125 g) granulated sugar
¾ cup (150 g) packed light brown sugar
2 tablespoons (30 ml) pure maple syrup
5 tablespoons (75 g) unsalted butter, for browning
¼ cup (60 ml) neutral vegetable oil
4 ounces (113 g) full fat cream cheese, cut into small pieces
4 large eggs
¼ cup (60 ml) buttermilk
2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste
Finely grated zest of 1 orange
1 cup (115 g) walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
Instructions
STEP 1 OF 14
Heat the oven and prepare the tins
Preheat the oven to 340°F (170°C). Position a rack in the middle of the oven. Grease two 8½ x 4½-inch (21.5 x 11.5 cm) loaf pans and line them with parchment paper, leaving enough overhang to lift the loaves out once baked.
STEP 2 OF 14
Make the crumble
Place the flour, light brown sugar, demerara sugar, cinnamon and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the cold butter and rub it into the dry ingredients with your fingertips until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs, with a few larger buttery pieces remaining.
Fold in the finely chopped toasted walnuts. Place the crumble in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes while you prepare the batter.
Chef Jon's tip: keeping the butter cold helps the topping keep its lovely, irregular texture during baking rather than melting into the loaf. |
STEP 3 OF 14
Toast the walnuts
Spread the walnuts for the bread on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for approximately 7 to 9 minutes, until fragrant and lightly golden. Allow them to cool before chopping. If preparing the crumble walnuts at the same time, toast all the walnuts together and divide them afterwards.
STEP 4 OF 14
Brown the butter
Place the butter in a small, light coloured saucepan over medium heat. Allow it to melt, then continue cooking, swirling the pan occasionally, until the milk solids turn golden brown and the butter develops a rich, nutty fragrance.
Remove the saucepan from the heat as soon as the butter reaches a deep hazelnut colour. Carefully pour it into a heatproof bowl, scraping in the toasted milk solids. You should have approximately ¼ cup (60 g) of brown butter.
You'll know it's right when the specks at the bottom of the pan are a deep hazelnut brown and the butter smells nutty and toasted. |
If something's off: if the specks turn black and smell bitter, the butter has burnt. Start again with fresh butter. |
STEP 5 OF 14
Coat the walnuts
While the toasted walnuts are still slightly warm, toss them with approximately 1 teaspoon of the brown butter. Set aside to cool completely. Reserve the remaining brown butter for the batter.
STEP 6 OF 14
Mix the dry ingredients
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and baking soda. Set aside.
STEP 7 OF 14
Cook the pumpkin
Place the pumpkin purée, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom and cloves in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat.
Cook for approximately 6 to 8 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, until the pumpkin has thickened and reduced to approximately 1½ cups (360 ml).
You'll know it's right when the pumpkin is noticeably thicker, with a deeper colour and a wonderfully fragrant aroma. |
STEP 8 OF 14
Melt in the cream cheese
Remove the saucepan from the heat. Stir in the granulated sugar, light brown sugar, maple syrup, vegetable oil, remaining brown butter and cream cheese.
Allow the mixture to stand for approximately 5 minutes, giving the warmth of the pumpkin time to soften the cream cheese. Whisk until the mixture is smooth and glossy, with no visible pieces of cream cheese remaining.
Stir in the vanilla bean paste and finely grated orange zest.
STEP 9 OF 14
Add the eggs
In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk until thoroughly combined.
Make sure the pumpkin mixture is warm rather than hot, then gradually whisk in the egg mixture until smooth.
Chef Jon's tip: if the pumpkin mixture still feels hot to the touch, give it a few more minutes. Too much heat can start to cook the eggs. |
STEP 10 OF 14
Fold in the flour and walnuts
Add the flour mixture and fold gently with a spatula until just combined. A few small lumps are perfectly acceptable. Avoid overmixing, which can make the finished bread heavy.
Fold in the toasted walnuts, distributing them evenly throughout the batter.
STEP 11 OF 14
Fill the tins and add the crumble
Divide the batter equally between the prepared loaf pans, smoothing the surfaces gently.
Remove the cinnamon walnut crumble from the refrigerator and scatter it generously over both loaves. Leave the topping loose and irregular, with a mixture of fine crumbs and larger buttery nuggets. Do not press it into the batter.
STEP 12 OF 14
Bake
Place the pans in the centre of the oven and bake for approximately 55 to 70 minutes. Begin checking after 50 minutes. The loaves should be well risen, the topping golden, and a wooden skewer inserted into the centre should come out clean or with a few moist crumbs attached.
For a more precise indication of doneness, check the centre of each loaf with an instant read thermometer. Aim for approximately 205°F to 208°F (96°C to 98°C).
You'll know it's right when the centre of each loaf, beneath the crumble, reads 205°F to 208°F (96°C to 98°C) on an instant read thermometer. |
If something's off: if the crumble begins to brown too quickly, loosely cover the loaves with foil. |
STEP 13 OF 14
Cool
Remove the loaves from the oven and place the pans on a wire rack. Allow them to cool for approximately 20 minutes before carefully lifting them out.
Transfer the loaves directly to the wire rack and allow them to cool for at least another 1½ hours. This gives the crumb time to settle and makes the bread much easier to slice.
STEP 14 OF 14
Serve
Serve at room temperature or slightly warm, cut into generous slices. A little salted butter is particularly lovely, although the bread is rich and tender enough to enjoy on its own.
Tips & Chef's Notes
Never skip cooking the pumpkin. It concentrates the flavour and removes the excess moisture that makes quick breads heavy.
Watch the butter carefully. Once the milk solids begin to brown, things happen rather quickly.
Use only the finely grated outer zest of the orange, avoiding the bitter white pith.
Allow the loaves to cool before slicing. That little bit of patience makes all the difference between a tender slice and one that crumbles beneath your knife.
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Key Ingredients
Pumpkin Purée: Unsweetened, and cooked with the spices to concentrate its flavour.
Brown Butter: Toasted milk solids give a hazelnut fragrance and an almost caramel flavour.
Vegetable Oil: Keeps the loaf soft and moist, even the following day.
Cream Cheese: Melts into the warm pumpkin for a tender crumb and a gentle tang.
Maple Syrup: A little warmth and sweetness that loves brown butter.
Orange Zest: A quiet background freshness you notice without necessarily identifying.
Toasted Walnuts: In the bread and in the crumble, for a lovely nuttiness.
Warm Spices: Cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom and a little clove.
Why I Cook the Pumpkin First
This is one step I would never skip.
Pumpkin purée contains a surprising amount of water, and that excess moisture can leave quick breads heavy and slightly gummy.
Cooking the purée for a few minutes concentrates its flavour and gives the spices an opportunity to release their fragrance. The pumpkin becomes thicker, darker, and wonderfully aromatic.
It is a small amount of extra work, but the difference in the finished loaf is worth it.
Chef's Secret: Brown Butter and Cream Cheese
Brown butter is one of my favourite ingredients. As ordinary butter cooks, the milk solids begin to toast, developing a wonderful hazelnut fragrance and a rich, almost caramel flavour. It works beautifully with pumpkin, maple syrup and warm spices.
I like to use a combination of brown butter and vegetable oil in this recipe. The butter contributes flavour, while the oil helps the loaf remain soft and moist, even the following day.
The cream cheese might seem a curious addition, but it gives the pumpkin bread a lovely tenderness. As it melts into the warm pumpkin mixture, it contributes richness and a gentle tang that balances the sweetness of the sugars and maple syrup.
You won't taste cream cheese in the finished loaf, but you will appreciate the soft crumb it helps create.
How to Tell When Your Pumpkin Bread Is Perfectly Baked
One of the best investments you can make for your kitchen is a good instant read thermometer.
Pumpkin bread can be a little deceptive. The outside may look beautifully golden, the kitchen may smell wonderful, and a wooden skewer might even come out clean, while the centre still needs a few more minutes in the oven.
I like to check the internal temperature before removing the loaves. For this recipe, I aim for 205°F to 208°F (96°C to 98°C), inserting the thermometer into the very centre of the bread, beneath the crumble topping.
At this temperature, the crumb should be properly set while remaining beautifully soft and moist.
The Cinnamon Walnut Crumble
A good crumble topping should be wonderfully irregular. Some pieces should be small and sandy, while others remain in larger buttery nuggets.
The demerara sugar adds a delicate crunch, and the toasted walnuts bring a lovely nuttiness. Keeping the crumble chilled before baking helps it retain its texture rather than melting immediately into the surface of the loaf.
I particularly enjoy the contrast between the crisp topping and the soft pumpkin bread beneath.
Don't Rush the Cooling
I know how tempting it is to slice into a warm loaf, particularly when the kitchen smells of cinnamon and brown butter. But pumpkin bread benefits from a little patience.
The crumb continues to settle as it cools, becoming more tender and easier to slice. Cutting it too soon can make the centre appear damp, even when the bread is properly baked.
Give it time. There will still be plenty of lovely fragrance waiting when you cut that first slice.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping the pumpkin cook: the loaf can turn out heavy and slightly gummy.
Adding the eggs to hot pumpkin: let the mixture cool until warm rather than hot.
Overmixing the batter: fold just until combined, and a few small lumps are fine.
Pressing the crumble into the batter: scatter it loosely so it stays crisp.
Slicing too soon: the centre can look damp even when the bread is properly baked.
Twists to Try
A little rum: add 1 tablespoon of dark rum to the warm pumpkin mixture along with the vanilla and orange zest.
Pecans instead of walnuts: toast and chop them in exactly the same way.
Chocolate chips: fold in a handful of dark chocolate chips with the walnuts.
What to Serve with Pumpkin Bread
A little salted butter, spread across a warm slice
An afternoon cup of coffee or tea
A spoonful of lightly sweetened whipped cream for dessert
How to Store
Room temperature: Once completely cool, store the loaves in airtight containers for approximately two days at a cool room temperature.
Fridge: Keep for up to five days. The crumble will gradually soften during storage, so the bread is at its best on the day it is baked if you particularly enjoy a crisp topping.
Freezer: The loaves can be frozen for up to three months. Wrap them well to prevent freezer burn. I often freeze individual slices, which can be gently warmed whenever I fancy something with my afternoon coffee.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why cook the pumpkin purée first?
Pumpkin purée contains a surprising amount of water. Cooking it concentrates the flavour and removes excess moisture, so the loaf is tender rather than gummy.
How do I know when pumpkin bread is done?
The most reliable test is an instant read thermometer in the centre of the loaf, beneath the crumble: 205°F to 208°F (96°C to 98°C).
Will I taste the cream cheese?
No. It melts completely into the warm pumpkin and gives the bread a softer, more tender crumb.
Can I use fresh pumpkin?
Yes, as long as it is smooth and well drained. Cook it down until it reduces to about 1½ cups (360 ml) with the spices.
Can I make one loaf?
Yes. Halve every ingredient, using 2 eggs, and bake in one loaf pan.
Can I leave out the walnuts?
Yes. Leave them out of the bread and the crumble, or use pecans instead.
Can I freeze pumpkin bread?
Yes, for up to three months, wrapped well. Individual slices freeze beautifully.
Why did my pumpkin bread sink?
Usually it was underbaked or sliced while still warm. Check the internal temperature and allow it to cool completely.
The Story Behind This Bread
I love this sort of baking. Nothing terribly complicated, just a few bowls, a saucepan, and the pleasure of filling the kitchen with the smell of cinnamon, warm butter, and toasted nuts.
This pumpkin bread is a little different from the usual.
I begin by gently cooking the pumpkin purée with the spices. It might seem an unnecessary extra step, but it concentrates the pumpkin's flavour and removes some of its excess moisture. The result is a loaf with a wonderfully tender crumb rather than that slightly damp texture pumpkin bread can sometimes have.
Then comes the brown butter.
I melt the butter slowly until it turns the colour of toasted hazelnuts, filling the kitchen with a fragrance that always makes me reach for a spoon. A little maple syrup, some freshly grated orange zest, and a generous handful of toasted walnuts join the mixture.
The cream cheese is another small secret. It melts into the warm pumpkin, giving the finished bread a lovely softness without making it heavy.
And because I have never been particularly good at resisting a crumble topping, I finish each loaf with a generous scattering of buttery cinnamon crumbs, toasted walnuts, and crunchy demerara sugar.
As the bread bakes, the topping turns golden, the edges become wonderfully crisp, and the kitchen begins to smell like a particularly good autumn afternoon.
The recipe makes two loaves.
I usually tell myself that one is for us and the other is for a friend.
It is a lovely idea, although I must confess that the second loaf occasionally fails to leave the kitchen.
The Last Slice
By the time the bread came out of the oven, the kitchen smelled of cinnamon, toasted walnuts, and warm butter.
I left the loaves on the counter to cool, although I found myself returning every few minutes to inspect them. Not that they required inspecting. I simply liked being near them.
Eleanor Rigby had long since abandoned any hope of pumpkin being remotely interesting and was asleep beneath the kitchen table.
Eventually, I cut a thick slice.
The crumb was soft and golden, flecked with walnuts, while the crumble had formed a wonderfully crisp, buttery crust.
I spread a little salted butter across the warm surface and watched it slowly disappear into the bread.
Outside, the afternoon light was fading across the garden.
I made another cup of coffee, cut a second slice, and decided the other loaf could wait until tomorrow.
The friend I had intended it for would never know.
Recommended Equipment
Make this recipe easier with the right tools: Instant-Read Thermometer, Digital Scale, Sauce Pan, Silicone Spatula, and Cooling Rack. Also useful: Rasp Grater and Precut Parchment.
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